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Haags Gemeentemuseum 1971 HUIS IN – HUIS UIT

I have been working at the Haags Gemeentemuseum for nearly 25 years . I have been moving somewhere around 1.000.000+ books in all these years and never…never…. seen this title before. I am an independent antiquarian bookseller for almost 20 years now and within these years i must have seen evn more books and never encountered this title before, so i did not know it existed, but it is there and it appears to be important too, because it is one of the first exhibitions which combines fashion and interior design over the ages and shows examples of each period. For those of you who did not know it existed. Here it is how it looks. The book is now available at www.ftn-books.com

huis in huis uit

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Tamara de Lempicka (1898-1980)

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Two aspects of her art life spring to mind. First and foremost a great Art Deco painter and one of the frist female artists being recognized by the greater public as a great artist and secondly …she depicted the “beau monde” in the Interbellum. The period between WWI and WWII.

Although she was born in Poloand she spent her working life in France and the United States. She is best known for her polished Art Deco portraits of aristocrats and the wealthy, and for her highly stylized paintings of nudes.

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Born in Warsaw, Lempicka briefly moved to Saint Petersburg where she married a prominent Polish lawyer, then travelled to Paris. She studied painting with Maurice Denis and André Lhote. Her style was a blend of late, refined cubism and the neoclassical style, particularly inspired by the work of Jean-Dominique Ingres.[1] She was an active participant in the artistic and social life of Paris between the Wars. In 1928 she became the mistress of Baron Raoul Kuffner, a wealthy art collector from the former Austro-Hungarian Empire. After the death of his wife in 1933, the Baron married Lempicka in 1934, and thereafter she became known in the press as “The Baroness with a Brush”.

Following the outbreak of World War II in 1939, she and her husband moved to the United States and she painted celebrity portraits, as well as still lifes and, in the 1960s, some abstract paintings. Her work was out of fashion after World War II, but made a comeback in the late 1960s, with the rediscovery of Art Deco. She moved to Mexico in 1974, where she died in 1980. At her request, her ashes were scattered over the Popocatépetl volcano. www.ftn-books.com has one nice publication on Lempicka

lempicka

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Haags Gemeentemuseum..Nederlandse Beeldhouwkunst, 1951.

nederlandse beeldhouwkunst

An exhibition from 1951, an important exhibition of which i noticed that many of the sculptures are now part of the permanent collection, but what makes this publication even more special is that it is a very large publication for those days. It contains 62 pages and…… a plan for the exhibition. I had never seen the publication before but the plan makes it even more special. It shows the importance of the exhibition and the scale must have been enormous for those days. It was so large that it needed a plan not to get lost. This plan is what i want to share with you, because it is very special. The publication is for sale at www.ftn-books.com or you can exchange this for the Erwin Olaf publication…Erwin Olaf – I am. A historic publication for a future collectible photobook.

(please note that the Gemeentemuseum was open in the evening too)

nederlandse beeldhouwkunst a

nederlandse beeldhouwkunst c

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Karl Lagerfeld (1933-2019)

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Karl Lagerfeld dies at the age of 85 today.  Cat lover and fashion designer he mostly will be remembered for the fashion he designed in the years he designed Haute Couture and pret a Porter for Chanel. His muse Claudia Schiffer was feautured in many catalogues published in those years of which some are availabel at www.ftn-books.com

Beside fashion he had two other great loves.. first of all his cat Choupette and secondly photography, because beside his fashion designs he was a very accomplished and talented photograper too.

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New site for FTN books and discount code

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It was a necessary step to make the site more accessible, so i changed the lay-out made it much more clear for all visitors to find their way among the 8000+ items that are for sale at www.ftn-books.com.

The result a clean and pleasing site in a blue and creme color scheme. Pleasing to the eye, with a great search engine to find those titltes you are looking for . Please take a look at www.ftn-books.com and when you order use the discount code: FTNnew (10% discount on all items), which is valid until the 6th of February 2019.

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Josef Albers and his Christmas card from 1952

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On this Christmas eve some thoughts by Josef Albers :

Wenn ich male
sehe und denke ich zunächst – Farbe

Und zumeist Farbe als Bewegung

Nicht als Begleitung
von Form, die seitwärts bewegt,
nur seitwärts verbleibt

Sondern als Farbe in dauernder innerer Bewegung

Nicht nur in Interaktion und Interdependenz
mit Nachbarfarben,
verbunden wie unverbunden

Sondern in Aggression – zum wie vom Beschauer
in direktem frontalen Uns-Anschauen

Und näher betrachtet,
als ein Atem und Pulsieren – in der Farbe

When I paint
I think and see
first and most – color
but color as motion

Color not only accompanying
form of lateral extension
and after being moved
remaining arrested

But of perpetual inner movement
as aggression – to and from the spectator
besides interaction an interdependence
with shape and hue and light

Color in a direct and frontal focus
and when closely felt
as a breathing and pulsating
– from within

Josef Albers

The card below was the original Josef Albers Christmas card from 1952

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Unfortunately this card is NOT available at www.ftn-books.com, but many other Albers item are available. a Merry Xmas from Wilfried van den Elshout and FTN books

 

 

 

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Aziz Bekkaoui (1969)

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One of the dutch fashion designers i truly enjoyed working with was AZIZ (Bekkaoui). I met a few of the great fashion designers in my time at the Gemeentemuseum. Frank Govers i found authentic but not that sympathetic, the same with Frans Molenaar …at a distance a likable personality, but as soon as you had met he was not the friendliest one. Max Heymans….. a rude person that thought of himself to be the king among dutch fashion designers, but for me he never reinvented himself, but his importance was based on a very loyal clientele who thought his designs were ina class of their own. Mart Visser a found sympathetic and one of the last i worked with was AZIZ Bekkaoui. A Moroccan born fashion designer of who i personally think is one of the most original ones to have appeared on the dutch fashion scene in the last few decades.  No gimmicks like Viktor & Rolf, but true and original fashion His fashion designs are inventive and highly original and…..he is certainly one of the friendliest designers i have met.

At the time of his Gemeentemuseum show he was hardly known, but the catalogue we made for the show was one of the most original ones at the time i was working at the Gemeentemuseum. Designed by Gracia Lebbink, we chose for a felt like white cover and the best printing possible…the result a highly collectable fashion exhibition catalogue which is still available at www.ftn-books.com

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Andre de Dienes (1913-1985)

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Dienes began work as a professional photographer for the Communist newspaper L’Humanité, and was employed by the Associated Press until 1936, when the Parisian couturier Captain Molyneux noted his work and urged him to become a fashion photographer.

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In 1938 the editor of Esquire, Arnold Gingrich offered him work in New York City, and helped fund Dienes’ passage to the United States. Once in the United States Dienes worked for Vogue and Life magazines as well as Esquire.

When not working as a fashion photographer Dienes travelled the USA photographing Native American culture, including the Apache, Hopi, and Navajo reservations and their inhabitants. Dissatisfied with his life as a fashion photographer in New York, Dienes moved to California in 1944, where he began to specialize in nudes and landscapes.

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As well as Monroe, Dienes also photographed such notable actors as Elizabeth Taylor, Marlon Brando, Henry Fonda, Shirley Temple, Ingrid Bergman, Ronald Reagan, Jane Russell, Anita Ekberg and Fred Astaire.

De Dienes married twice, and died of cancer on April 11, 1985, in Hollywood.

( the above text comes from Wikipedia)

One of the lesser known nude photography publications in which  de Dienes made several contributions is available at www.ftn-books.com

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Beppe Kessler (1952), Jewelry and Paintings

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Beppe Kessler is one of those artists who grows on you. Educated on the Rietveld Academy , she soon found her way into the Gallery circuit with frequent exhibitions all over the Netherlands in the Eighties. What makes her work special is the use of materials which are not commonly used for jewelry. For example she uses nylon tissues and balsa wood within her jewelry. This really makes her jewelry stand out from other designers, ………but there is more to Beppe Kessler. She is also a painter and this is where my interest originated . If you look at her paintings you might think you are looking to a child of a Constructivist father and an organic hairy mother.

These paintings are exceptional. Their sizes differ, but even in the smallest of paintings you can see the personal “signature’ of Beppe Kessler. The book that www.ftn-books.com has in its inventory is from a special edition of 500, signed and numbered but what makes it really special is the cover. All 500 covers are different and this one is one with 4 pins sticking out, making it a true Kessler painting.

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Gianni Versace (1946-1997)

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This is not a blog on Versace, but  a blog on Fashion house catalogues in general. The great fashion houses like Chanel , Hermes and certainly Versace, invite the best photographers  to photograph top fashion models by the best photographers in the business. A very “organic” combination was Karl Lagerfeld who photographed Claudia Schiffer in the time he was responsible for all fashion designs.

A lesser known combination is Bruce Weber who photographed at least 3 catalogues for Gianni And Donatella Versace of which the most important one is the 1997 catalogue which was published shortly before he was assassinated. Another Bruce Weber one was the 1996/97 one. He was invited to photograph the COLLEZIONE AUTUNNO INVERNO 1996/97 for which he did the main part of the male models, together with Richard Avedon who did the female models. A classic in the publishing history of fashion catalogues. www.ftn-books.com has bought a small collection of these Versace catalogues which is now for sale.

versace weber