Posted on

Andre de Dienes (1913-1985)

Schermafbeelding 2018-07-04 om 10.16.07

Dienes began work as a professional photographer for the Communist newspaper L’Humanité, and was employed by the Associated Press until 1936, when the Parisian couturier Captain Molyneux noted his work and urged him to become a fashion photographer.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

In 1938 the editor of Esquire, Arnold Gingrich offered him work in New York City, and helped fund Dienes’ passage to the United States. Once in the United States Dienes worked for Vogue and Life magazines as well as Esquire.

When not working as a fashion photographer Dienes travelled the USA photographing Native American culture, including the Apache, Hopi, and Navajo reservations and their inhabitants. Dissatisfied with his life as a fashion photographer in New York, Dienes moved to California in 1944, where he began to specialize in nudes and landscapes.

Schermafbeelding 2018-07-04 om 10.03.15

As well as Monroe, Dienes also photographed such notable actors as Elizabeth Taylor, Marlon Brando, Henry Fonda, Shirley Temple, Ingrid Bergman, Ronald Reagan, Jane Russell, Anita Ekberg and Fred Astaire.

De Dienes married twice, and died of cancer on April 11, 1985, in Hollywood.

( the above text comes from Wikipedia)

One of the lesser known nude photography publications in which  de Dienes made several contributions is available at www.ftn-books.com

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

 

Posted on

Beppe Kessler (1952), Jewelry and Paintings

Schermafbeelding 2018-06-28 om 15.06.07

Beppe Kessler is one of those artists who grows on you. Educated on the Rietveld Academy , she soon found her way into the Gallery circuit with frequent exhibitions all over the Netherlands in the Eighties. What makes her work special is the use of materials which are not commonly used for jewelry. For example she uses nylon tissues and balsa wood within her jewelry. This really makes her jewelry stand out from other designers, ………but there is more to Beppe Kessler. She is also a painter and this is where my interest originated . If you look at her paintings you might think you are looking to a child of a Constructivist father and an organic hairy mother.

These paintings are exceptional. Their sizes differ, but even in the smallest of paintings you can see the personal “signature’ of Beppe Kessler. The book that www.ftn-books.com has in its inventory is from a special edition of 500, signed and numbered but what makes it really special is the cover. All 500 covers are different and this one is one with 4 pins sticking out, making it a true Kessler painting.

Posted on

Gianni Versace (1946-1997)

Schermafbeelding 2018-06-22 om 15.34.28

This is not a blog on Versace, but  a blog on Fashion house catalogues in general. The great fashion houses like Chanel , Hermes and certainly Versace, invite the best photographers  to photograph top fashion models by the best photographers in the business. A very “organic” combination was Karl Lagerfeld who photographed Claudia Schiffer in the time he was responsible for all fashion designs.

A lesser known combination is Bruce Weber who photographed at least 3 catalogues for Gianni And Donatella Versace of which the most important one is the 1997 catalogue which was published shortly before he was assassinated. Another Bruce Weber one was the 1996/97 one. He was invited to photograph the COLLEZIONE AUTUNNO INVERNO 1996/97 for which he did the main part of the male models, together with Richard Avedon who did the female models. A classic in the publishing history of fashion catalogues. www.ftn-books.com has bought a small collection of these Versace catalogues which is now for sale.

versace weber

Posted on

Viktor & Rolf , 25 years in Fashion

Schermafbeelding 2018-05-17 om 14.58.07

Viktor & Rolf celebrate this year their 25 years of cooperation jubilee. Working together and designing fashion in a very personal style with lots of humor. A success story which brought these dutch fashion designers fame and all over the world presenting their collections, opening exhibitions and resulting in a highly succesful internet store filled with pret a porter and fragrances . They call themselves FASHION ARTISTS and when you look at the catalogue that is available at www.ftn-books.com you can see why. The book is 100% Viktot & Rolf. Cover, the chosen black, printing and layout , everything breathes Viktor & Rolf.

For those living in Australia …know that there will be a Viktor & Rolf exhibition coming up in Melbourne in the National Gallery of Victoria.

 

Posted on

Norman Parkinson (1913-1990)

Schermafbeelding 2018-02-07 om 13.58.24

Another photographer . Yesterday William Klein and today Norman Parkinson. Two different approached to photography. For me Parkinson stands for typical sixties photography. Fashion and Royalty were his expertise and because of that expertise he stayed practically his entire life the preferred photographer choice of the British Royals. These photographs were typically staged photographs, they showed nothing spontanious and every pose, setting and prop was well thought over an staged. ( Yes, Audrey Hepburn is some kind of cinematic Royalty too)

His fashion photographs were much more loose and therefore i prefer these above the Royal photographs.

It is noot a very common book to find. A monography with photographs by Norman Parkinson is a rarity , but still www.ftn-books.com has one in its inventory.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Posted on

Nobuyoshi Araki (1940)

Schermafbeelding 2018-03-07 om 09.43.01

Araki has published over 400 books. He is known primarily for his photography that blends eroticism and bondage in a fine art context. But where he first was a rather obscure photographer who dared to photograph his subjects in “forbidden” poses and where his publications were originally sold under the counter. His photography has become mainstream, partly due to his dutch representatives of Reflex gallery and certainly by Benedikt TAschen who published several titles on Araki , including to super large sized ARAKI special publication in 2002.

Nobuyoshi Araki is known best for his intimate, snapshot- style images sensual flowers and of women often tied up with ropes (a kinky japanese art called Kinbaku). ( some of them availabel at Reflex galery / Amsterdam).The magnitude of  Araki’s work is difficult to wrap your head around. Araki is an artist who reacts strongly to his emotions and uses photography to experience them more intensely. His work is at once shocking and mysteriously tender with a burst of power. But one thing strikes me about most of his photographs (besides the obvious nudity) is the relationship between him and the one he captures, the intimacy, the trust and the surrender. Araki is Helmut Newton on drugs but more amplified. He is not afraid of his emotions nor of showing them to the world. He is truly an exceptionally deep and emotional artist. In 1970 he created his famous Xeroxed Photo Albums, which he produced in limited editions and sent to friends, art critics and even people he selected randomly from his local telephone book.  Araki has published over 400 books of his work. Including ARAKI, a super large publication, $4000.00 book of beauty.

Schermafbeelding 2018-03-07 om 09.35.07

About this publication said “this book reveals everything about me. it’s been a 60-year contract. Photography is love and death- that’ll be my epitaph” – Araki

But you do not have to spent as much as 4k USD. There are excellent Araki publications for far less money available at www.ftn-books.com

Posted on

Carlo Mollino (1905-1973) …multi disciplined artist

Schermafbeelding 2018-03-04 om 10.30.09

Architect, Photographer, furniture designer and engineer. All these disciplines were combined in one person…the genius Carlo Mollino.

Educated at the Politecnico di Torino he soon became one of the leading architects in that city. Linda and I will be visiting Torino later this year and we certainly will see some of these timeless Mollino buildings.

 

but for me Mollino stands for design and photography, because in both he excels. His engineering skills are undoubtedly there and so are his architectural accomplishments, but with his photography and design he is truly avant-garde. Look at his photographs and you know exactly where Araki and Saudek took their inspiration from and his furniture…. it has the “free” style of the later Memphis group but was much more stylish. (BTW this desk is still in production).

Mollino was a true genius who’s works are better known each year, because his name is not only known in Italy anymore. Because of some very important publications, exhibitions and books, his fame spreads all over the world. A unique artist and personality and one of the great multi disciplined artist from last century.

I found a very good blog on him at this address: https://buildllc.wordpress.com/2008/12/07/the-work-of-carlo-mollino/

and for some Mollino publications please visit www.ftn-books.com

 

Posted on

Sixties magazines TIQ versus PLEXUS

The sixties were the years of my teens. And with these years belong some dutch fan music magazines . There was Muziek Express and Tuney Tunes for the young fans, For the somewhat older teens there was HITWEEK( Which later became Aloha)

and then there was finally TIQ…. a a magazine focussing on art, music, fashion, photography and ….”sex”  making this a true Dutch Pop Art magazine .It was a groundbreaking magazine , years ahead of its time. Published as a glossy magazine , but with a contents that was solely focussing on the teens and twens from the sixties.

Unfortunately it was not popular and only 14 of these magazines were published in 1966 and 1967. It disappeared much to soon from the market ,leaving the youth only Hitweek, but in France it was totally different. Of course there were BD’s ( Bandes Dessinees/ Comics) with Pilote as the leading magazine. But is focusses on the very youthful , this was recognized by L.D. publisher who wanted something different and then there suddenly was PLEXUS. No glamour photography but artful photographs by renowned photographers. Paintings by Labisse and Leonor Fini . Painters and artists who did not look away from nudity. Nudity, erotic art, erotic cartoons and short stories were the main ingredienst. Focussing with this contents on a youthful audience. In France this was the equivalent for the TIQ magazine in the Netherlands. A pop Art magazine with only 40 volumes in its publication years. Both nostalgic collectables of which there are now 3 volumes available at www.ftn-books.com

plexus z

Posted on

Bettina Rheims ( 1952 ) and Morceaux Choisis

It is possible that i like the photography of Bettina Rheims so much because we are from the same generation. The french hotel rooms that are a little worn are familiar to me too and these are in many cases the backgrounds of the models that Bettina Rheims uses in her photography. Whenever i find a book or special publication by Rheims , i buy it. The MORCEAUX CHOISIS title that is available at www.ftn-books.com was found in Bilbao at a local bookstore when we visited it together with the Guggenheims. Still packed and in pristine condition . another title published a few years ago was found in Paris and the last one i added ” BONKERS” in Rotterdam. The collection of Rheims publications will be expanding in the years to come , but has now grown into quite a few titles.

Posted on

Issey Miyake (1938) and Irving Penn

Schermafbeelding 2017-10-04 om 14.17.23

The first time i encountered the name of Issei Miyake was when an exhibition in the Nederlands Kostuummuseum was organized by curator Ietse Mey. The pleated fabrics by Miyake impressed and on a later occasion at the Groninger Museum i became an admirer of his designs.

Miyake has not become a mainstream designer and his designs are to complex to be worn in daily life, but he is important and he developed under his own brand name “l’Eau d’Issey” a range of balms and aftershaves which have become highly successful and made him a wealthy man. One publication must be discussed in this blog, because it is one of the best fashion photo books ever and its printing is outstanding and probably the reason why this is such a beautiful book. The fashion designs “shine” and look to float on the white blank pages. The photography is by Irving Penn, who made this the ultimate Issey Miyake book. Highly recommended and available at www.ftn-books.com

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA